One technique I witnessed countless times on that show was how designers would work up a muslin before cutting into their limited, expensive fabric. It was fascinating to me as I watched them conduct fittings, pinning from the outside and altering the garment to fix unflattering issues. But I had never been taught how to do that -- how to learn such skills instead of relying on patterns that don't perfectly fit? After all, some of the appeal of sewing your own garments is getting a better, more flattering fit than you can off a clothes rack.
When I got the chance to review an advance digital copy of First Time Garment Fitting from Netgalley, I was excited to dig in. One of the first things Sarah Veblen does is inform us how to train our eyes to recognize fit issues so we know how to correct them. She has been creating garments for others for 25 years and her expertise shines through these pages. I felt like I was getting to sit in on a master class of techniques. She stresses the importance of sewing muslins, sample garments that will allow you to correct fitting issues so you end up with the ideal pattern pieces from the start, not wasting nice fabrics on shoddy workmanship. Veblen says after she's done some different muslins, she'll sometimes work up the pattern first in a less-expensive fabric for the final fitting. Then, if that works, the client has a new casual garment in their wardrobe, in addition to the final piece.
I especially appreciated her teaching about drag lines, folds, and horizontal balance lines. Veblen encourages designers to use mirrors and photos, both when working on a garment on yourself and on others; those mediums allow you to view a 3D garment in 2D, which can make it easier to identify fit issues. The frequent sketches and photos helped me feel confident I was understanding her thorough, comprehensive steps. They reinforce her teaching, and I liked how she sometimes demonstrated the same pattern on different body types to show how different issues could come to light.
Even her short demonstration on how to transfer pattern markings to muslin by using dressmaker's carbon/transfer paper helped instruct me, as I have some of my mother's sewing supplies but am self taught and didn't know how to use them.
Veblen pulls from her expertise to relay how to compensate for "unbalanced" bodies (for instance, those with scoliosis) so that the garment doesn't draw attention to shoulders being at different heights and so on. There's even instructions for how to scale patterns up or down; for instance, with your final pattern pieces for a blouse, you could size up for a jacket or up a little more for a coat.
This book is a phenomenal resource. The repeated examples of fitting different garments are useful for a beginner like me. I'd love to add this book to my collection and have it near at hand when I'm next working on clothing for myself. It will help me know how and where to add/edit darts, fix drag lines, and establish more skill and confidence in my abilities. The book doesn't supply patterns, but it's so comprehensive with advice and the step-by-step process that it will translate well to patterns you have on hand.
(I was provided a digital advanced readers copy of this book from NetGalley in exchange for an honest review. I've used Amazon Affiliate links here; should you purchase through these links, I receive a small commission, at no extra cost to you.)
